My Itinerary: A 6 day and 182 km pilgrimage on the Atlantic Ocean Coastal Way from Portugal to Santiago de Compostela

What is the Camino?

Before I share my itinerary with you, allow me to start off with some of the basics. I can’t tell you how many people looked at me with a blank look on their face when I told them I was “doing the camino” for my vacation in April 2015. Some were shy to ask me what it is, so I offered up an explanation and this is what I will do right now as well: I call it the camino, but technically it is called “Camino de Santiago” or “Way of Saint James.” It is an ancient path and pilgrimage. Pilgrims or “peregrinos” from all over the world have walked to the tomb of Saint James since the 9th century. It is located in a city in north western Spain called Santiago de Compostela. It is a trip of a lifetime.

According to AAA Spiral Guide Spain:

“To medieval Europeans, a pilgrimage was a means of earning extra grace and thus attaining heaven faster; it also meant travel, excitement and fun. Pilgrimages were made to many holy places, but the great goals were Jerusalem, Rome and Santiago de Compostela, the burial place and shrine of the apostle Saint James, Santiago in Spanish. According to legend, he had preached in Spain before returning to martyrdom in Judaea. His disciples brought his body back to northern Spain where it lay hidden until 813 …”

Today, most pilgrims still walk for religious or spiritual reasons, while others walk:

to reconnect and discover themselves
for adventure, history, culture and to enjoy the natural beauty
for the personal challenge (a physical, mental and spiritual challenge)
to experience the communal atmosphere

You don’t have to be Roman Catholic to undertake the camino. Last year, in May 2014, on my first camino, I walked part of the way with my Jewish friend.

There are many paths that will lead you to Santiago de Compostela. The most popular route is the Camino Frances (The French Way), which crosses the top of Spain through the countryside and will have you walking for almost 800 km or 4 to 6 weeks depending on your pace. This footpath is one of the oldest in all of Europe.

You can start anywhere and go at your own pace. There is no official starting point because pilgrims used to start their journey from their own home. Last year, in May 2014, I met a gentleman just outside of St. Jean Pied de Port who had been walking from Paris. In Sarria, I met an older gentleman who had been walking from Vienna in stages over a number of years. Most people walk but you can ride your bike or even take a horse. You can do it stages and are free to walk alone or in a group.

Pilgrims are distinguishable by the scallop shells they wear and follow a cockle shell that serves as a guide post and reassuring friend. There is a significance to the scallop shell: there was a time when the pilgrimage to SdC was considered punishment and atonement for sins and served as an alternative to prison time. The pilgrim would then be given a scallop shell at the end of their camino as proof that they had completed the walk.

Pilgrims carry a pilgrim’s passport, the credential, which is stamped along the way and serves as a record that you present in Santiago at the pilgrim office to receive your compostela. The compostela is a certificate of achievement and confirms that you have completed the camino.

Like many of you, it is hard to find the time “to do the camino.” Not many of us can take a month or two “to do it properly.” I certainly do not want to wait until I retire or to be in between jobs to eventually do it. So, how can it be possible? You don’t have to do it the “typical” way. You have many options! How about spending one week walking along the Atlantic ocean coast from Portugal?

A summary of my itinerary

Here is a summary of my upcoming camino itinerary for April 2015.

If you only have one week, like me, you can begin in Viana do Castelo. Head north along the Atlantic ocean coastline, stopping in charming seaside villages and towns along the way: Caminha, Ancora, A Guarda, Oia, Baiona and Vigo. You will then join the caminho central in the town of Redondela, where you will continue onto Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis and Padron before arriving in Santiago de Compostela. This itinerary will have you walking for 6 days and almost 200 km. Ideally, I would add an extra day or two to this particular itinerary to allow for some wiggle room and time to explore, ponder and to simply relax and just be. If you have 10-14 days, I would suggest starting in Porto and remaining in Santiago de Compostela for a few days, instead of rushing out of there to catch a plane the next day.

I’ll be doing this pilgrimage in April 2015, so it is highly unlikely that I’ll be able to swim in the Atlantic Ocean but I will benefit from secluded beaches and have time to reflect, which is perfect as this is a spiritual journey for me.

I will be reporting back on my actual experience, so stay tuned for that in May 2015 upon my return to “real” life.

Before we dive into the itinerary, we need to look at a map to get some perspective and a sense. Here is my favourite map that I used during my research and constantly referenced. If I had to pick one map to bring with me, this would be it! It is interactive, so bookmark or save it for later use.

Here are the stages or days:

Stage 1 (Friday, April 24th, 2015):

Viana do Castelo – Âncora – Caminha – A Guarda (31 km)

On this first stage of the camino I’ll be walking from Viana do Castelo to Caminha. I’ll then say good bye to Portugal and get onto a short ferry over into A Guarda, in Spain. Here is a downloadable detailed map of this stage by Luis do Freixo.

Santa Luiza, Viana do Castelo, Portugal

Today’s walk will be broken into the following manageable sections:

Rise and shine darling! Have a big breakfast and be out by 8 am.
Viana do Castelo to Âncora is 17 km or about 4 hours. My goal is to arrive in the coastal town of Âncora by noon and have lunch here.
Âncora to Caminha is 9 km or about 2 hours. When I arrive in Caminha, I need to go and check on the ferry schedule. It is thankfully officially back in service.
It is now time to enjoy a late afternoon break and take a stroll in Caminha. I have about an hour to visit the main square, Igreja Matriz and the remains of medieval and 17th century fortifications.
I need to make sure that I don’t miss the 4 pm ferry over to the other side of the River Minho.
Once I’m on the other side of the River Minho I’ll be faced with two options: head straight to A Guarda or take a detour along the estuary for great coastal views, which would add 4 km or an hour. I’m sure I’ll be choosing the later option.
Once I’m in A Guarda, I’ll need to find a place to sleep and settle in. I’m considering staying here.
It’s now time to grab a bottle of Albariño white wine, get into a taxi (after walking over 31 km today, I doubt I’ll want to walk up a hill) and head to the famous hilltop, situated high above the town. I’ll need to give myself enough time to explore the remains of a prehistoric, fortified Celtic hill settlement, which was only discovered in 1913. Now sit back and enjoy the spectacular view as the sun sets. This should be a great finish to the first day on the camino.

Santa Tecla, A Guarda, Spain

Stage 2 (Saturday, April 25th, 2015):

A Guarda – Oia – Baiona (30 km)

The plan today is to walk 30 km north along the Atlantic ocean coastline from A Guarda to Baiona. Here are two detailed maps for this stage today: here and here. This walk will be broken down into the following manageable sections:

If I want to spend some time at the end today exploring Baiona I’ll have to start walking around 7 am.
A Guarda to Oia is 12 km or about 3 hours. Enjoy a snack in Oia.
Oia to Talaso Atlantico is 12 km or about 3 hours. Stop in at Talaso Atlántico and consider taking a dip in the hydrotherapy pool, which is open to the public (one hour will cost 15 Euros for an adult). Be out by 3:30 pm.
Talaso Atlántico to Baiona is 6 km or about 1.5 hours.
When I get to Baiona, I’ll need to find a place to rest my head. I’m considering staying at the Parador de Baiona. I’ll be wanting to settle in and hope that I have enough energy go check out the town of Baiona.

Parador de Baiona, Baiona, Spain

Stage 3 (Sunday, April 26th, 2015):

Baiona – Vigo – Redondela (37 km)

Today will be a long day! As I follow the coast towards Vigo from Baiona, I’ll be enjoying views of the Bay of Vigo and of Illas Cies in the horizon. If I was going in the summer and I had more time, I’d stay an extra day or two in Illas Cies, which looks spectacular. Baiona to Vigo is 23 km or about 6 hours. It is then another 14 km walk from Vigo to Redondela or about 3.5 hours.

Here is the day’s itinerary:

Follow the cycle track out of Baiona and take in the amazing views as it hugs the bay towards A Ramallosa, which is 5 km or about an hour away.
After crossing the medieval bridge at A Ramallosa, follow the green arrow along the coastline towards Nigran for another 4 km or an hour. There is a 2.6 km blue flag beach called Praia América (America Beach) where I can enjoy the Atlantic Ocean and Cies Islands. I may take a break in Nigran.
I will pass the Playa de Patos which is popular with surfers and shortly after that pass Playa de Portiño.
I will now be 13 km away from Vigo. Stay on the cycle track which will take me to a small beach at Candido. I will be on the maritime walkway. Continue to follow the coastline.
As I get closer to Vigo I will need to prepare myself as it may feel like a big shock from the solitude that I’ve been experiencing. If I haven’t had lunch yet consider stopping here for a bite.
Vigo to Redondela is 14 km or about 3.5 hours. If I don’t want to rush today or if I am too tired for this part of the journey, take the train which runs frequently, only takes 10 minutes and costs about 2.25 Euros.
Once I arrive at Redondela, I will connect with the camino central.

Stage 4 (Monday, April 27th, 2015):

Redondela – Pontevedra – Caldas de Reis (41 km)

Now that I am on the camino central, I can rely on the John Brierley guidebook. I am on a more popular route than the one I have been on, so expect it to be busy and social. Today will be another long day, so get up early! I need a backup plan if I’m tired or do not want to rush. I will see how the day unfolds and decide at that time. Here is the itinerary for the day:

If I want to arrive in Pontevedra by noon, I’ll need to start walking by 7 am at the latest. Ideally start earlier than that to allow for wiggle room and a morning break.
Redondela to Pontevedra is 18 km or 5 hours of walking without stopping. This will be the last time I’ll walk along the coast, so enjoy the seaside for one last time. It’s a bit early for lunch, but think about stopping at Arcade to try the famous oysters.
If I arrive in Pontevedra by noon I can enjoy lunch in the historic center and have a bit of time to explore the Romanesque churches and quaint granite squares.
Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis is 23 km or about 6 hours of non stop walking. Since the sun sets around 8 pm I would need to leave Pontevedra by 2 pm in order to arrive in CdR by dark. That’s too much pressure. I will need to figure out a gentler way to enjoy myself and not feel rushed. Here are some options for me to ponder:
1. About 12 km after Pontevedra is Barro. Consider staying there. It will be remote and quiet.
2. Since the facilities in Barro are very limited, walk for another 12 km to Barro and then take a taxi from there to CdR. In the morning get a taxi to take me back, so that I can actually walk the 10 km that I missed. Doing this would save about 2 hours today that I can transfer onto tomorrow.
3. I may have the energy and time to get to CdR.

Stage 5 (Tuesday, April 28th, 2015):

Caldas de Reis – Padron (18 km)

Today should be an easy day of walking, which is fantastic. This stage will be split between natural pathways and quiet country roads. I plan to get up … drum roll … whenever I feel like it. I only have about 5 hours worth of walking today and will have plenty of time to explore Padron when I arrive today.

Stage 6 (Wednesday, April 29th, 2015):

Padron – Santiago de Compostela (25 km)

Today is the final day of walking! The goal will be to arrive by noon for the pilgrim mass and to simply spend the afternoon enjoying SdC at a leisurely pace. It is time to get my head lamp out, as I will need to start walking around 5 or 6 am if I want a mid morning break. Here are some highlights for the walk today:

historical sanctuary of A Esclavitude
ruins of a fort known as Castro Lupario
just after Teo I will find one of the oldest wayside crosses in Galicia

Once I pass the ruins of the castle of A Rocha Vella, I know that I am almost in SdC. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh.

The Arrival

I must prepare myself for my arrival in Plaza del Obradoiro and seeing the majestic Cathedral up close and in person. This is the moment I’ve been waiting for, so expect a mix of emotions and take some time to take it all in.

Last year I sat on the ground, prayed and gave thanks for my safe arrival. I had no idea that my go pro hero camera was still on and in the time lapse mode continuing to take shots. Here is one of those unexpected shots. I have very few pictures of myself on the camino, and it is simply divine intervention that this shot was taken. Unbelievable! What a magical and precious moment that was captured.

Please wish me a “buen camino.” This is a common phrase or salutation that pilgrims say to one another along the way and means “good journey.” It is a greeting and prayer that your day will be blessed with many graces, that you may arrive safely at your destination and that it will be an enjoyable walk.

And with that, BUEN CAMINO my fellow and future pilgrims!

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Resources and Links

When it came to planning and doing research on the Camino Portugués, information was not as plentiful as that of the popular French way. The fact that I wanted to walk from Porto along the Atlantic Ocean coastline presented an extra twist. If you are interested in this pilgrimage and want more information, here are the resources that I found most helpful:

The best place to start is with the “go to” camino pilgrim guides created by John Brierley. I had purchased this guide last year and already had it in my library. To keep my weight down I plan to bring only the relevant sections that I need for this trip.
This article written last year in June 2014 by Mark Auchincloss, the owner My Destination Galicia, was the BEST write up that I found during my research and actually lead me to my ultimate favourite resource: Luis Freixo.
Luis do Freixo was by far the VERY BEST resource as he had excellent detailed and thoughtful maps of the Atlantic Coast walk that I was specifically interested in. He also authored an excellent pdf of the Camino Portugués in general.
This is THE map that I used during my research and carried it everywhere to reflect on. If I had to pick only one map to bring with me on my trip, this would be it! It is interactive! Consider bookmarking or saving it to use later as a reference while researching and traveling.
Here is a website called caminoways.com with a great itinerary here.